Rabbits

• Rabbits: The Basics
  Learn about the basics of rabbit behavior and what you can expect from your new rabbit.
• Rabbit Supply List
  Bringing home a new pet can be daunting, so we have a list of things you will need when you bring home your rabbit!
• Health and Grooming
  An overview on how to keep your rabbit healthy and happy.
• Litter Training
  The basics of litter training a rabbit of any age.
• New Adopter Checklist
  Things you should know before you adopt a rabbit.

• Rabbit Facts
  Important things to know about rabbits.
• Rabbits in the Home
  Tips and tricks on how to have a rabbit in your home.
• Rabbit Behavior
  All about recognizing what your rabbit is telling you.
• Rabbit Produce Guide
  A list of all product that your rabbit needs to be happy and healthy.
• Rabbits 101 (PDF)
  A rabbit care guide of everything from food and bedding to medical and behavior.

Young rabbits tend to have more energy and more need to explore than older rabbits have, but like all living things, rabbits have their own individual personalities. Like puppies, young rabbits love to chew. Like older dogs, rabbits may still enjoy chewing, but not to the extent they did when young. Rabbits chew non-food items because they need to explore the world through taste and texture, they need to build strong jaw muscles, and just because it’s fun. In addition, a very important aspect of chewing is to keep the teeth of the rabbit worn down. Perhaps older rabbits chew less because they know the taste and texture of the world and need only food to keep their teeth worn-down and their jaws strong. In any case, time is on your side when it comes to a rabbit’s inclination to chew your great-aunt’s antique buffet. On the other hand, training does not happen by itself or simply with time.

For the companions in a family to live in harmony, a companion (human) must be committed to giving time and effort to the companion (animals) of the family. If you aren’t able or willing to commit to a minimum of 30 minutes a day of concentrated training, until the desired results have been achieved, you shouldn’t bring companion (animals) into your home.

Rabbits should have a home of their own (called a “cage”) within the family home, large enough for a litter box, food dishes, toys, and them. They should be able to stretch full-length in all directions. Ideally, a “shelf” or “loft” is provided to give an opportunity for vertical jumps.

With such a home, and hopefully, with companionship of another rabbit, rabbits can be kept in their homes full time except for times of supervised out of cage romps and the 30 minutes (or more) of training they should have daily. In addition to restricting the time in which they are out to those times when you can watch them with your full attention, you want to restrict the space they have access to. As they become well trained within a restricted area, you can gradually increase their boundaries.

A wonderful “home” for your rabbit is a wire dog crate. They can be purchased of a large size and are open enough on the sides for the rabbit to see out and be more a part of the family even when they are confined to their “home.”

Finally, never attempt to use training alone to keep a rabbit from something that can cause harm or death. Toxic houseplants and electrical wires should be impossible for a rabbit to reach. Counting on training or “the way she’s always behaved” with respect to such things is asking for an accident that could leave you deeply grief-stricken and your rabbit in terrible pain or even dead.

During the training time, do nothing but concentrate on the rabbit. Open the door to his home and let him (or them) come out when he chooses. You may offer toys or treats from your hand, but don’t interfere with him if he wants to explore. Watch him carefully throughout the time he is out of the cage. If the rabbit starts to chew on something you don’t want chewed, immediately offer him as many other things that are okay to chew on as you can. Block whatever he was chewing on so it ceases to be a temptation (block it well, so you aren’t simply challenging the rabbit to break through).

If possible, provide something with a similar, or better, taste and texture to what is being chewed. For example, a piece of untreated, unfinished baseboard (screwed into something so it doesn’t move) instead of the real baseboard; or a piece of scrap carpet instead of the real carpet (as long as the rabbit isn’t ingesting the pieces he pulls out); or a piece of apple branch instead of chair legs.

The same thing applies to digging. If the rabbit loves to dig in the carpet, build a small “corner” or “tunnel” with carpeting on the bottom (frequently replaced) and give this to him to distract him. Or make a digging box by blocking the end opening of a covered litter box and cutting a hole in the side. The rabbit will go in, turn so his body runs the length of the box (providing he is large enough that his body doesn’t fit cross-wise). The digging material will be flung against the sealed end of the litter box and remain contained. Use something totally dust-free and safe in the digging box. Rabbits, being the incredibly intelligent little creatures they are, quickly learn.

Rabbits need to communicate with their companions (humans), but of course, their communication is without words. One obvious example of such communication is struggling when they are picked up. This is simply (and obviously) saying, “I don’t like being picked up! Put me down! I don’t feel safe when you take control of my body this way!” There are few instances when it is appropriate for companion (humans) to force their will on a companion of another species in this way. Obviously, if a rabbit’s teeth must be examined or clipped because of malocclusion, it is necessary to hold him against his will. But be careful not to force your rabbit to be picked up and held if he is uncomfortable with it.

If you want a rabbit that enjoys jumping on your lap and being stroked, teach him to trust you, by never grabbing or holding him against his will when he comes to you. Use treats, nose-to-nose touching, chin rubbing (your chin on the rabbit’s face), rubbing around the ears, etc. – whatever he enjoys – to encourage his pleasure in being with you. And if he happens not to enjoy such activities, so be it. Respect and enjoy him for who he is, after all, you want the same for yourself.

A rabbit who enjoys sitting on your lap and being stroked may nip you sharply if you get distracted enough to stop stroking him. He isn’t trying to hurt you, just to remind you that he expects you to get back to the job at hand. When a rabbit nips in an effort to communicate appropriately such as in this case, he probably doesn’t realize how painful it is or how severe the resulting bruise may be. Screech one high, loud, sudden, and short screech to let the rabbit know that he really hurt you. The squeal should be loud, sudden, and high enough to startle the rabbit slightly. The next time he nips (appropriately – i.e. for the purpose of communicating), you will be surprised at how much gentler it will be. Continue to squeal when nipped, however, until the nip is gentle enough to cause no pain or bruising. (Note: use ice on the bruise quickly).

Finally, we come to behavior motivated by a rabbit’s natural desire to claim space or resources. These behaviors are different from chewing, digging, litter training, or nipping for attention, but they can sometimes be mistaken for them. Throughout this discussion, keep in mind that your goal is to set clear, consistent boundaries so your rabbit understands what is acceptable and what isn’t. This helps create a safe, respectful relationship that meets both his needs and yours.

If a rabbit jumps onto the couch where you are sitting and nips you deliberately, he is probably trying to claim the couch for himself. (This is “inappropriate nipping.”) Not only should you screech to let him know it hurt, but you should also firmly (but gently) return him to the floor with a clear “No!” If he jumps back up and doesn’t nip you, he’s learned that he can share the couch, but not drive you off. If he jumps back up and nips again, you repeat the screech, the “No!” and the return to the floor. If he comes back a third time with a nip, it is time for a short “time-out” (for example, a two-minute break in his enclosure). If he throws a tantrum in the enclosure—rattling the bars or flinging himself around—ignore him. Once he settles down, he can come back out. If he continues to nip or try to push you off furniture, he may need to remain in his enclosure until the next scheduled playtime.

Another behavior sometimes seen is urinating on furniture or beds that you frequently use. This is a way of marking territory, much like rabbits do with each other. While it can feel like a challenge, it is really a form of scent-marking. In these cases, it often helps to limit access to that piece of furniture for a while, use washable covers, and reinforce litter training in appropriate areas.

Training a companion (rabbit) requires commitment of time, effort, and thought on the part of the rabbit’s companion (human). It isn’t just teaching the word “No!” (this will only teach the rabbit to wait until the human isn’t looking). It’s learning to understand the rabbit’s likes and dislikes, working to provide things he really enjoys, thinking up new possibilities when old toys become boring, and making the effort to switch toys regularly to maintain interest. Enjoy your companion rabbit(s) to the fullest! Train them well and carefully, love them with all your heart, appreciate them for whom and what they are, and both of you will experience the great pleasure of sharing your lives with each other in harmony. Rabbits are delightful, little creatures!

• Roomy cage with a solid floor (2’x3′ min. for avg. size bunny)
• Litter box (in cage)
• Pellet bowl or feeder
• Water bottle/crock
• Toys (chew and toss) Running Space Indoors
• Bunny-proofed room(s)
• Litter box
• Toys (chew and dig) Outdoors
• Fenced patio/porch/playpen (with floor)

• Limited pellets daily
• Fresh water
• Timothy or grass hay/straw (for digestive fiber and chewing recreation)
• Fresh greens (lead lettuce, parsley, cilantro – variety is good)
• Very small amount of sugary fruits or veggies as a treat (a couple of slices of banana, apple or strawberry)
• Wood (untreated, for chewing recreation)

• Flea comb
• Brush
• Toenail clippers Supplies
• Dust-free litter (Gentle Touch or Yesterday’s News, CareFresh, compressed wood pellets)
• Whiskbroom/dustpan
• White vinegar (for urine accidents)
• Hand vacuum
• Newspapers

Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit’s attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. If you have a baby rabbit, stick with it! And if you are deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it!

Spayed/neutered rabbits are more likely to use their litter boxes (as well as be much healthier and happier).

The House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from oat, citrus or paper. Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits that use them. Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. Obviously you need to change the hay frequently (daily) since your rabbit will be eating it. Gentle Touch litter is one of the best and is easily available.

Clean litter boxes often, to encourage your rabbit to use them. Use warm, soapy water to rinse boxes out – for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside the cage can be cleaned up with soapy water. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like “Nature’s Miracle” (sold in the ARL’s Animal House store) to remove the stain and odor. To dispose of organic litters, they can be used as mulch, or can be composted. Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer. Baking soda can be used to help eliminate odors as well.

Use a cage large enough to contain a small litter box (along with the rabbit’s food and water bowls, toys, etc.) and still allow enough room for the rabbit to stretch out. Place the box in the corner of the cage that he goes in. With a litter box in the cage, when the rabbit is confined to his cage when you’re not home, cage time is learning time.

All rabbits will drop pills around their cages to mark it as their own. This is not failure to be litter trained. It is very important for your rabbit to identify the cage as his property so that when he leaves the cage for the bigger world of your house, he will distinguish the family’s area from his own and avoid marking it. To encourage this, make the rabbit the king of his cage. Try not to force him in or out of it – coax him. Do not do things to his cage that he doesn’t like, or things to him that he doesn’t like while he’s in the cage.

Even if your goal is to let your rabbit have full run of the house, you must start small. Start with a cage and a small running space, and when your rabbit is sufficiently well trained in that space, gradually give him more space. But do so gradually! If you overwhelm him with too much freedom before he’s ready, he will forget where his box is and will lose his good habits, as well as taking ownership.

Method:

Start with a box in the cage, and one or more boxes in the rabbit’s running space. If he urinates in a corner of the cage not containing the box, move the box to that corner until he gets it right. Don’t be concerned if your rabbit curls up in his litter box, this is natural. Once he’s using the box in the cage, open his door and allow him into his running space. Watch him go in and out on his own.

If he heads to a corner where there’s no box, or lifts up his tail in the characteristic fashion, cry “no” in a single, sharp burst of sound. Gently take him back to his cage and his litter box or into one of the boxes in his room. Be careful, however. You don’t want to make the cage or the litter box seem like punishment. A handful of hay in the box makes it a more welcoming place. After he first uses the box, praise him and give him his favorite treat. Once he uses the box in his room a couple of times, you’re well on your way, as his habits will be on their way to forming. As he gets better trained in his first room, you can increase his space. Don’t hurry this process. And if the area becomes very big, or includes a second floor, be sure to include more litter boxes, so as not to confuse him. Remember, as he becomes more confident, and uses fewer boxes, you can start to remove some of his early “training” boxes. Get your rabbit into a daily routine and try not to vary it.

The more litter boxes, the merrier, especially if your rabbit is a bit of a slow learner, or is especially obstinate about where he wants his box(es) to go. As his habits improve, you can decrease the number of litter boxes.

Some rabbits love to kick their litter out of the box. You can get a covered litter box (with a hood) to help solve this problem. You can also try experimenting with different litters. A second problem is that rabbits often back up so far in the litter box that the urine goes over the edge. Again, a covered litter box can solve this problem. Another solution would be to get a dishpan or other type of tub with much higher sides. Still another solution would be to get a “urine guard” to place around the back of the cage, to keep the litter from spraying outside of the cage.

If your rabbit continually urinates in a spot where there is no litter box, put his box where he will use it, even if it means rearranging his cage or moving a table in the living room. It is much easier to oblige him than to try to work against a determined rabbit!

Provide a roomy cage, six times the size of an adult rabbit. A wire dog crate makes a great cage for a rabbit. Wire dog crates have a large front opening, and do not have a wire bottom, which can be uncomfortable on a rabbits’ feet. A front opening door is preferable for a rabbit to come in and out on his own. Door must be large enough for litter box to fit through. Provide toys in cage.

If you aren’t using a wire dog crate you will need a resting board to cover part of cage floor (piece of cardboard, wood, or carpet) for rabbit’s comfort. Slatted floors are more comfortable than wire floors. Litter box fastened inside cage to re-enforce litter box training.

Provide a heavy pellet bowl or clip-on feeder for food and a water bottle or crock for water. If rabbit tends to get wet chin from a water bowl, switch to a water bottle.

Indoors:

Gradually increase freedom. Bunny-proof electric cords. Place second litter box outside cage. Let rabbit have access to cage (leave door open with water and food inside). Clean small litter box once a day – clean cage tray and floor covering once a week or as needed.

Outdoors:

Fenced patio, porch or wire playpen (with floor), daytime only, with supervision.

Rabbit pellets and fresh water should be available daily. Fresh vegetables and fruit should also be a part of the daily diet, along with hay, (for fiber and nutritional value): grass, clover, and oat. Provide straw for chewing needs, and wood, cardboard, grass mats, untreated wicker, and other safe chewables for chewing and entertainment. Wood is nice if it is wired to the side of the cage.

Alfalfa should not be given to rabbits over 6 months of age. Straw is not a substitute for hay, as it does not have the nutritional value of hay.

For digestion, try the following:

Papaya enzymes/multiple enzymes (especially Prozyme for prevention of fur-block and enteritis). These are available for purchase at the ARL’s Animal House store.

If rabbit struggles violently, either restrain him against your body or squat down and release him. Fighting him may injure him. Prevent him from jumping from heights. Encourage a routine until he returns to his cage willingly.

Demonstrate to the rabbit that you are the source of affection, treats, freedom, and anything else he likes. Pet him on the broad area on top of his nose. Try short sessions several times a day. Avoid situations in which you have to chase him. Never punish a rabbit: distract or remove him from chewing or digging destructively. Give him something he can play with.

Rabbits readily develop habits – good or bad – and can be influenced by humans.

• Regularly check eyes, nose, ears, teeth, weight and droppings. Notice any behavior change.
• Avoid stress, heat, and sudden temperature changes. 85 degrees and above can be life threatening to a rabbit.
• Find an experienced rabbit veterinarian before a problem develops.
• Groom with flea comb.
• Brush away excess fur.
• Clip toenails.

Provide a roomy cage, six times the size of an adult rabbit. An average size rabbit (5-6 lbs) should have a cage at least 2 feet by 3 feet. A front opening door is preferable for rabbit to come in an out on his/her own; top opening cages are nice too in that they allow humans to reach in and out. Both top and front opening door is ideal. The door must be large enough for litter box. Provide toys in cage.

A cage with solid floors should be used, but if using a wire or slated floor provide a resting board to cover part of cage floor (piece of cardboard, wood, or carpet) for rabbit’s comfort. Slatted floors are more comfortable than wire floors. Litter box fastened inside cage to re-enforce litter box training. If using a litter bow, avoid putting bedding in the rest of the cage as this may be confusing to the rabbit. Provide a heavy pellet bowl or clip-on feeder for food and a water bottle or crock for water. If rabbit tends to get wet chin from a water bowl, switch to a bottle.

Indoors: gradually increase freedom. Bunny-proof electric cords. Place second litter box outside cage. Let rabbit have access to cage (leave door open with water and food inside). Clean small litter box once a day – clean cage tray and floor covering once a week or as needed.

Outdoors: fenced patio, porch or wire playpen (with floor), daytime only, with supervision.

Rabbits may have free run of the home. However, it’s best for most – and necessary for some – to start with a cage. To make cage time learning time, fasten a litter box in the corner of the cage that your rabbit chooses for a “bathroom.” As soon as he uses the box consistently, you can give him some freedom. Place one or more large litter boxes in corners of the running area outside the cage.

Use only positive reinforcement (treats and praise) – never punishment.

Bunny-proofing your home is part of living with a house rabbit. It is natural for rabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. Cords must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. Exposed cords can be encased in vinyl tubing (found at hardware stores). By splitting the tubing lengthwise with a utility knife the cord can be pushed inside it.

Give your rabbit enough attention, safe chewables, and toys, so that she is distracted from chewing furniture and rugs. A cardboard box stuffed with hay makes an inexpensive play box. Young rabbits (under a year) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or bunny proofing than mature rabbits.

House rabbits and indoor cats can get along fine, as do rabbits and well-mannered dogs. Dogs should be trained to respond to commands before being trusted with a freerunning rabbit, and supervision is needed to control a dog’s playful impulses (this is especially true for puppies). Adding a second rabbit is easiest if the rabbits are neutered adults of opposite sexes, and they are introduced for short periods in an area unfamiliar to both rabbits.

If rabbit struggles violently, either restrain him against your body or squat down and release him. Fighting him may injure him. Prevent him from jumping from heights. Encourage a routine where he returns to his cage willingly. Demonstrate to the rabbit that you are the source of affection, treats, freedom, and anything else he likes. Pet him on the broad area of his nose. Try short sessions several times a day. Avoid situations in which have to chase him. Never punish a rabbit. Distract or remove him from chewing or digging destructively. Give him something he can play with. Rabbits readily develop habits – good or bad – and can be influenced by humans.

Leafy Greens I (need to be rotated due to oxalic acid content and only 1 out of three varieties of greens a day should be from this list)

• Parsley
• Spinach
• Mustard greens
• Beet greens
• Swiss chard
• Radish tops
• Sprouts (from 1 to 6 days after sprouting, sprouts have higher levels of alkaloids)

Leafy Greens II (low in oxalic acid)

• Arugula
• Carrot tops
• Cucumber leaves
• Endive
• Ecarole
• Frisee Lettuce
• Kale (all types)
• Mache
• Red or green lettuce
• Romaine lettuce
• Spring greens
• Turnip greens
• Dandelion greens

• Mint (any variety)
• Basil (any variety)
• Watercress
• Wheatgrass
• Chicory
• Raspberry leaves
• Cilantro
• Radicchio
• Bok Choy
• Fennel (the leafy tops as well as the base)
• Borage leaves
• Dill leaves
• Yu choy

These should be no more than about 15 % of the diet (About 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day).

• Carrots
• Broccoli (leaves and stems)
• Edible flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus)
• Celery
• Bell peppers (any color)
• Chinese pea pods (the flat kind without large peas)
• Brussel sprouts
• Cabbage (any type)
• Broccolini
• Summer squash
• Zucchini squash

These should be no more than 10% of the diet (about 1 teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day). NOTE: unless otherwise stated it is more nutritious to leave the skin on the fruit (particularly if organic), just wash thoroughly. IF you are in doubt about the source of the fruit and you are concerned about chemicals in the skin, then remove it.

• Apple (any variety, without stem and seeds)
• Cherries (any variety, without the pits)
• Pear
• Peach
• Plum (without the pits)
• Kiwi
• Papaya
• Mango
• Berries (any type)
• Berries (uncooked)
• Pineapple (remove skin)
• Banana (remove peel; no more than about 2 1/8 inch slices a day for a 5 lb rabbit…they LOVE this!)
• Melons (any – can include peel and seeds)
• Star Fruit
• Apricot
• Currants
• Nectarine