Cats & Kittens

Cats & Kittens

Bringing Your New Cat Home

Introducing your new cat to your other pets at home can be a tricky process. Here are some hints to ease the change.

Introducing a new cat to other cats

Have the new cat brought into the home by a neutral party. This lessens the first cat’s jealousy. Don’t shower too much attention on the newcomer.
Confine the newcomer to one room with a litter box, food, water, and a bed. After a time, switch the cats. The newcomer can then explore its new surroundings and spread his scent around the house. This allows both animals to become used to the scent of the other before actual face-to-face contact. This process may take a few hours or a few days, depending on how the cats react.
A good time for face-to-face introductions is at mealtime. They will be so busy eating they won’t have time for fighting. Be sure to give each cat his owner personal bowl on opposite sides of the room.
Avoid forcing a meeting between the cats. This may cause unnecessary fighting. Let them acquaint themselves gradually to help develop a positive relationship and lessen territorial problems.

Expect hissing, spitting and growling. Don’t interfere unless an actual fight breaks out. If this happens, throw a blanket over each cat and confine them to different quarters. Keep them separated until they have calmed down.

Introducing a new cat to your dog

Place the cat in a room with a litter box, food, water, and a bed. Keep the door shut and always be certain the cat is safe from harm. This will allow the animals to become accustomed to each other’s scents through a safe barrier. If the dog reacts aggressively, correct him at once. Lavish the cat with attention and reassurance, as this is a stressful period.
Put the dog in the backyard with a screen door separating him from the cat inside the house. After an hour or so, put the dog on a leash and let him in. Let them investigate each other. Do not allow the dog to bark or show aggressive behavior.
When all signs of aggression disappear, put the cat into a carrier and let the dog off the leash.
The final step is to free the cat from the carrier. Make certain the cat has a safe place to hide. Don’t leave them unattended and never allow the dog to chase the cat.

Always feed your dog alone; he won’t appreciate a curious cat sniffing his food. Put the cat food where the dog can’t get it. (On a table, in a room with a baby gate across the door so the cat can get underneath it, but the dog cannot get under or over it, etc.) Keep the dog and cat separated when you aren’t home until you are certain of the cat’s safety.

Use common sense, be patient, be firm, be safe, and most of all, be loving.

Care of Your new Cat or Kitten

Kittens

Monitor food intake & excrement closely if your kitten is less than 6 months old and does not eat or drink for 24 hours, or if diarrhea persists for more than 24 hours, call the veterinarian. A kitten can become dehydrated very quickly and die within a short period of time if proper treatment is not provided. Should your kitten show other signs of illness such as sneezing, coughing, runny eyes, runny nose, or inactivity, call your veterinarian.

Dry kitten food and fresh water should be available at all times. Canned food should be fed in small portions 3 to 4 times daily until 6 months of age, then one or twice daily. Baby food can be used for very young kittens just learning to eat solids. Do not give your kitten milk or table scraps. This may cause diarrhea or stomach upset. Your kitten should eat kitten food until he is one year old, then a gradual change to adult cat food can be made.

Provide a warm sleeping area for your kitten that is free from draft.

Males and females MUST be spayed or neutered by 6 months of age. Females will begin their heat cycle and males may begin spraying at these ages or younger. Consider pediatric sterilization which can be now performed at around 8 weeks of age, and is less traumatic to your pet.

Be sure to adjust your kitten’s collar as he/she grows. You should be able to put your finger comfortably under the collar. Consider the “breakaway” collars designed especially for cats.

Provide lots of toys for your cat, remembering that they should be toys that are not connected to your hands or feet. Toys should be those that can be tossed (such as balls), or a fishing pole type of toy that you can dangle for your cat to play with.

Adult Cats

Provide fresh water at all times. Dry food should be available at all times with canned food fed in small amounts twice daily for dietary variety. Loss of appetite can be one of the first indications of illness, and if your cat is not eating his moist food, he will probably not be eating his dry food either. Feeding moist food is especially helpful in monitoring your cat’s eating habits in a multiple cat household. Do not feed your cat milk or table scraps as they may cause diarrhea or stomach upset.

If your cat shows any signs of illness for a 48-hour period such as a lack of appetite, diarrhea, sneezing, coughing, tearing eyes, runny nose or inactivity, call your veterinarian. If your cat is straining to urinate, urinating frequently, or urinating outside the litter box, call your veterinarian immediately! This could be an indication of a bladder infection, and a possible blockage of the urinary tract, which can be fatal.

Provide a warm sleeping area for your cat free from drafts.

Recommended Foods

Good quality, brand name foods or premium pet foods available through your veterinarian are recommended. Consult your veterinarian about possible special diets that your cat or kitten may need. Do not feed generic foods as they may be nutritionally incomplete.

Grooming

Bathing your cat or kitten isn’t necessary unless he is unable to keep himself clean. Use a damp, warm washcloth for cleaning small areas, making sure he is kept in a warm, draft-free area until completely dry. Combing or brushing your cat daily will help to keep hairballs from accumulating in his stomach. Hairballs are caused by the hair the cat swallows when grooming himself. Inexpensive hairball remedies are available at your pet store.

Indoor Cats - What Do They Miss?

Fights with other cats
Attacks by free-roaming dogs
Infections from puncture wounds
Gunshot wounds
Fleas, ticks, worms
Pesticide poisoning
Feline Leukemia
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
Being hit by a car
Encounters with sick and possibly rabid animals
Being sprayed by skunks
Being stolen
Steel jaw traps
Sickness or death from eating spoiled foods or poison

Fact: Inside cats live longer, healthier lives. Cats raised indoors are perfectly content with their safer world.

Any cat can get lost – even yours. YOUR cat needs a tag! Tag your cat even if it never goes outside!

One day your cat could slip through an open door and easily become lost. Don’t take a chance on losing your cat forever. Tag it with your name, address, and phone number.

The first time you put a collar on your cat, give it a catnip toy to distract attention from the new feeling of wearing a collar. Far more cats die because they get lost and their owners can’t find them, than ever get hurt from wearing a collar. Use a collar with a short piece of elastic sewn in which will stretch and let the cat escape if it gets hung up on a tree limb or fence.

Top 10 Reasons Your Cat Might Have Stopped Using It's Litterbox

Note: Following is a general list of reasons cats stop using their litterbox. Please note that cats may use their litterbox for years and then stop using it for no apparent reason. Most likely there IS a reason they have stopped, and to fix the problem, you will need to figure out what the reason is. It is possible, however, that your cat has been using the litterbox for years, and all of a sudden decided that what they didn’t like about their litterbox was just too much to take one more time. Most litterbox problems can be fixed and your cat will be back to using it’s litterbox immediately.

Medical problem
Cats may stop using their litterbox due to a medical problem – such as urinary tract infection (UTI). Medical reasons may make it uncomfortable for a cat to use its litterbox and because the cat most likely first felt the ‘pain’ from whatever medical reason while it was using the litterbox, the cat may associate the litterbox with the pain. When having litterbox problems with your cat you should first take your cat to your veterinarian to rule out a medical issue as being the cause for the litterbox problems.
Poor location of litterbox
Poor location of a litterbox might cause a cat to quit using its litterbox. For example, perhaps you have placed your cat’s litterbox next to a noisy hot water heater, or by the washer and dryer. Cats tend to like quiet, private places to go to the bathroom. You should add a litterbox in a quieter place and see if your cat starts to use that new box. (Never place an adult cat that is having litterbox problems into a litterbox – this typically tends to make the cat think that the litterbox is a punishment – i.e. the cat already has issues with the box for some reason and you are sticking the cat into the box! Let your cat see you setting up a new box, but don’t put the cat into the box – let your cat discover the new box on his own.)
Another issue for a cat can be that they feel their litterbox is located in an area, which has no “escape route.” This can be a common issue for any cat, but you tend to see this problem most in homes where there are multiple cats, dogs, children or just a busy household. Cats with “escape route syndrome” basically want to have their litterbox located in a corner so they can see out and about (with their back to the wall) while they are using the litterbox. This allows them to use their box and see what might be coming up to interrupt them.
Unclean box
Not only is a cat’s sense of smell many times sharper than ours, their noses are 20 times closer to a smell’s source. Cats would like to have their boxes cleaned after every time they use it; but realistically it would be great if it could be cleaned once a day, or at a minimum thoroughly cleaned once a week (even if you use scoopable litter).
Do not use bleach or any other strong smelling cleaning agent to clean the box or this will cause your cat to shy away from it. Use hot, soapy water to clean the box thoroughly.
Litter choice
If your cat was using its litterbox and then you decided to change the litter to something “better” – you may have a problem. It is important to mention the old saying “If it ain’t broken, don’t fix it.” If your cat is using its litterbox, don’t switch the litter for any reason.
If you have switched the litter from what the cat is used to, this could be why your cat has stopped using the litterbox. You should switch back to your original cat litter to see if this fixes the problem.
Note that litters with perfumes or additives for smell in litter may also cause your cat to rebel. Some cats have an aversion to these smells. Some cats with “litter aversion syndrome” can even stop using their litterbox because they don’t like the feel of a harder type of litter. Clumpable/scoopable litter can be used to give your cat something softer to go to the bathroom on.
To see if this is something that is an issue for your cat, you should add another litterbox with scoopable/clumpable litter in it next to the cat’s original box and see which box with which litter your cat chooses to use.
Note: If for some reason you HAVE to switch cat litters you should gradually mix the new litter type you are switching to with the litter that the cat has had over a period of time – gradually increasing the amount of the new litter vs. the old litter, until you are 100% to the new litter.
Box size
The litterbox you choose for your cat needs to be shallow enough that a cat can climb into it (pay attention to this if you have a kitten!). A litterbox also needs to grow in size with your cat.
If you have a large cat, a plastic under the bed storage unit can be used as a litterbox.
Privacy issues
Cats are “evolutionary programmed” to follow an elimination ritual to cover their scent to protect them from predators – this calls for peace and quiet! Don’t place your cat’s litterbox in a high traffic area, but also, do not stick your cat’s litterbox in some dark hallway, or closet area. Cats also need to be able to easily get into their litterboxes.
Some people get covered litterboxes to give their cats more privacy, but covered litterboxes can be a huge problem for some cats for a couple of reasons. The first is that covered litterboxes will tend to keep the smell more confined right in the area your cat is going to the bathroom. Cats have such a keen sense of smell this is a problem for most cats. Secondly, covered litterboxes are horrible for cats that have “escape route” issues (explained in 2. above) because your cat can’t see out and around his box at all. Take the cover off the litterbox and see if this solves your problem.
Litterbox count
You should have at least one litterbox per cat in the household. In some circumstances, two litterboxes per cat (some cats won’t urinate and defecate in the same box). If you have 2 cats and only one litterbox, add a litterbox next to the original box you had. Both cats may end up using both litterboxes, but they will each have a box.
Moving location
Moving the box from location to location can be a problem for a cat. Find a place the cat and you both like, and stick with it. Cats take their litterbox area very seriously and you should too.
Invaded territory
If a cat is in the litterbox and a second cat (or dog, or other) in the household confronts it while it is in the box, the cat may start to avoid the box to avoid the confrontation.
In addition, if your cat can see another cat outside through a window or door, this may cause stress (feels its territory is being invaded). Typically you will see spraying (vs. urination) in this regard and if that is the case you will need to deal with the territory and spraying issues to solve the problem.
Again, as discussed above, no “escape route” for some cats can be an issue due to invaded territory.
Punishment strategies
Cats do NOT do things out of anger; they are trying to communicate there is a problem! If you punish your cat when it doesn’t use its litterbox, you have added to the stress your cat is already feeling and instead of stopping the problem, you may have just accelerated the problem. NEVER punish your cat when he doesn’t use the litterbox (or for any other reason) – only use positive methods and positive reinforcement to solve a litterbox problem.

In addition:

Never rub their noses in their accidents! Not only is this not going to solve the problem, it will make it worse. In addition, this is completely unhealthy for your cat.

Never physically place them into the litterbox thinking you are sending the signal to use the box. In actuality this will cause the cat to think it isn’t supposed to use the box because your cat will think the box is someplace where he gets punished.

The use of squirt bottles is not recommended because it is difficult to use a squirt bottle and not be seen by the cat.

Confinement also doesn’t necessarily solve the problem long term because you haven’t addressed why your cat quit using it in the first place. Confinement may work short term because the confinement area may be so small your cat doesn’t have a choice not to use the box, but long term we need to solve the problem of why your cat quit using his litterbox so your cat can live out and about your house as a member of the family.

Never take an indoor cat and put them outside to be an outside cat because of a litterbox problem. Indoor cats should be indoor cats and should stay that way. You need to work to solve the litterbox problem for your cat.

Myths

It is important to note that cats do not quit using their litterbox to “get back at their guardians.” A cat may even urinate on the floor right in front of their guardians, or urinate on their guardian’s bed but the cat is only going in these places to get the attention of their guardians, because they can’t help it, or because the surface they are going on is softer than their litterbox. Cats also do not quit using their litterbox because they are “jealous” of another pet, a new baby, etc.

Spraying
Spraying is a separate issue from regular litterbox issues. Spraying is usually (but not always) due to territory issues. Here are a few things you can do to solve spraying issues:

Close all the curtains/drapes in your house for a period of time so they can’t see outside, and thus, can’t see other cats walking around their yard (their territory).
Use Feliway by and around the windows/doors that your cat is spraying around. Feliway is a spray that contains cat pheromones and so tends to make stressed out cats relax. You can get Feliway at pet supply stores or by ordering it on-line from pet supply websites.
Talk to your neighbors and ask them to keep their cats in their houses so they aren’t wandering into your yard where your cat can see them.

If you need help, please call the ARL’s cat behavior counselor at 515/262-9503 or e-mail the ARL at arl@arl-iowa.org, Attn: Carol.

Feline Leukemia and FIV

Feline Leukemia

Leukemia is a very contagious as well as fatal disease in cats. We highly recommend that you have your feline checked for leukemia as soon as possible. If you have other cats in your home, we advise you do not take a new cat or kitten into your home before it is tested.

FIV

Feline Immunodeficiency virus has recently been discovered in domestic cats. The infection is endemic in cats throughout the world. It is shed mainly in the saliva, and the principal mode of transmission is through bites. Free-roaming (feral and pet), male, and aged cats are at the greatest risk of infection. Cats with FIV-induced acquired immunodeficiency suffer from chronic secondary and opportunistic infections of the respiratory, GI (including mouth) and urinary tracts and the skin. Cats remain infected for life.

Provide a warm sleeping area for your cat free from drafts.

Recommended Foods

Grooming

6 Simple Alternatives to Declawing Your Cat

A tall, sturdy and heavy scratching post sprinkled occasionally with catnip is the favored alternative. Some cats are partial to sisal doormats.
When selecting furniture, a closely woven fabric is the best. Cats find this type of fabric difficult to pierce with their claws.
When your cat begins to scratch on a piece of furniture, give him a firm warning such as “No!” This should discourage him. If not, you can use a quick squirt from a spray bottle, but try not to get the cat see that it is you that is spraying it (this can make the cat afraid of you). Then call the cat to his scratching post with a food treat, and praise him when he comes and uses the post. This may have to be done over and over until he understands.
Until your cat learns that only the scratching posts, (it’s recommended that you have several), are for scratching, cover his favorite furniture scratching areas with either one or a combination of aluminum foil, a loosely woven fabric double-sided tape, or blown up balloons taped to the furniture.
If accustomed to the procedure cats will tolerate having the curved part of their claws clipped regularly. Consult your veterinarian for instructions.
When playing with a kitten or cat NEVER use your hands or arms in play. This teaches him that people are toys and he may scratch simply in play. Each time your cat scratches you, give him a loud, high-pitched “Ouch!” and leave the room. One of the most effective punishments for a cat is being ignored. (NEVER hit or slap your cat. Hitting or slapping your cat can just escalate the scratching and biting play behavior besides, among other things, being harmful to you and your cat’s relationship.)

Remember declawing is radical surgery that involves amputating the first joint of a cat’s toes. It’s permanent, expensive, and irreversible, and may have an unwanted affect on your cat’s behavior. Please consider other alternatives such as Softpaws nail caps or Sticky Paws on furniture before committing your cat to surgery.

Cats and Babies

Cats and children can be a wonderful thing! Despite what a lot of people believe, cats are social animals and love “their” people. When a new baby is coming into the family, you can do things to prepare the cat for this so that the cat can more easily adjust to having a new family member around. For example:

Set up the nursery early and let your cat explore the room. Keep the cat out of the crib from the day the crib is set up – and never allow the cat to be in the crib. Babies R Us has “crib covers” – netting that fits over the crib which would ensure your cat couldn’t get in the crib – these are a great tool to have from the day the crib is set up! (If you don’t want to use the crib cover – you can make the inside of the crib a really unattractive place for the cat to sleep by filling the crib with cans with coins in them so when they move they make a loud noise, etc. – but crib covers are the best way to ensure they stay out of the crib).
Note: There are a lot of myths about cats “sucking the breath out of” babies. Cats want to get into a crib because babies are warm, and they smell of milk. If you keep the cat out of the crib from day one (and use the crib cover) you won’t have to worry about the cat even getting into the crib to curl up next to the baby. IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT BABIES AND CATS SHOULD NEVER BE LEFT ALONE UNSUPERVISED.
You can put a screen door on the babies room by taking the regular door off the hinges and storing it until later. Mount the screen door just as if it were the permanent door – and it latches. This allows you to have the door shut, but with it being screen you can see and hear inside the room.
Get powders and baby oils that you will be using for your baby, and have them out and opened early. This will get the cat used to some of the smells of the baby before he/she comes home. Put some on you (and those in the household) so that the cat gets used to their owners having that smell on them.
Plan early and start setting times aside now that you play with your cat. For example, if after the baby is born you anticipate you will be able to play with your cat and spend time with your cat (just you and the cat) in the morning before the baby gets up; and at night after the baby goes to sleep – start spending 10 minutes now during those times to play with your cat on that one-on-one time. This will get your cat prepared for that being “his” time – and keep those one-on-one times going after the baby is born. Don’t over compensate before the baby comes and play with the cat all the time – because once the baby is here you won’t have that kind of time and then the cat won’t get the attention he was used to. Set play times now and ensure you play with your cat at those times, before and after the baby is here.
Cats need many, many toys! Make sure the cat has lots of toys that they can play with to amuse themselves when you are busy. (Make sure once your baby starts to crawl that the toys aren’t of the kind that the baby can put in his/her mouth and swallow.) Make sure that you do not ever use your fingers, feet, etc. to play with your cat. Only use toys such as “fishing poles” or balls to play with your cat. Note: the Animal Rescue League’s Animal House retail store (located inside the ARL) has all cat appropriate toys for sale so this is a place you can buy a toy and know it is appropriate for your cat and teaching your cat the appropriate play behaviors. These are toys that aren’t connected to a human body. This will ensure that when your child grows and puts his/her fingers out reaching for something, the cat won’t view those fingers/toes, etc. as a “toy”. If you are playing with your cat now by using fingers, etc. stop this immediately and start re-training your cat to play with cat toys.
Make certain the litterbox and the food and water bowls are where they will need to be after the baby comes home. Make sure they are located in places where a crawling baby won’t be able to get to so that your cat can maintain it’s territory and not feel invaded. If this is something you are going to have to move when the baby is born, move it now so that the cat doesn’t equate the baby coming home with his/her litterbox or food/water bowls being moved. If you can leave the litterbox and/or food and water bowls where they are – then leave them where they are. Not moving them at all is best if possible.
Tape the sound of a baby crying and start playing it off and on now. This will get your cat used to the sound. Vary the times of day and night that you play it (loudly) so the cat gets used to the sounds at any time of the day and night. (You can tape a crying baby off of a movie; or go to your doctor’s office – ask permission – but tape the sound of crying babies.)
You can buy a toy doll that crawls, etc. Buy one and have it crawl around your house. Reward the cat with treats or praise when the cat interacts appropriately with the toy doll. (Do NOT punish the cat if it reacts badly, just remove the doll and try it again until appropriate behavior is demonstrated – then reward the cat.) Hold the doll as you would a baby, rock the doll, etc. When the baby comes home, these actions will be normal to your cat.

After the baby is born and comes home, there are also many things you can do to ease the transition for your cat. For example:

When visitors come to the house, have them pay attention to the baby and the cat (if the cat was open to visitors before the baby was born).
When the cat is in the room with the baby; give the cats treats – and special attention. You want to reward the cat with the things he/she likes, i.e. treats, attention, toys, etc. whenever the baby is around. You want the cat to love having the baby around because he/she gets all these really cool rewards! (Do NOT punish the cat for inappropriate behavior, just remove the cat or the baby from the room. If you punish the cat, the cat will associate being punished with the baby and the cat’s acceptance of the baby will just take that much longer.)
Be sure and spend those 10 minutes in the morning and/or at night for one-on-one time with your cat! (As described in 4. above.)
If your cat slept on your bed with you at night before the baby was born, make sure the cat still gets to do that. Try not to change the things the cat normally did in his/her routine.
As the baby starts to crawl and walk and has an interest in the cat – ensure that you teach your child not to pull the cat’s tail, poke at the cat, etc. Cats and kids can have wonderful relationships with each other!

These are just a few of the things you can do to prepare your cat. Cats and babies can work! For more information or for help, please come to one of the sessions held at Babies R Us, or call the Animal Rescue League!

Felines Need Friends Too!

Because:

They learn from each other. Litter training is twice as fast!
No need to worry about your furniture - they'll play with each other!
Together they're entertaining, full of life, charming and just purr-fect.
A buddy will fill the lonely hours when you're not home.

Houseplants and your Cat

Plants add the needed finishing touches to any décor. But, if you have a feline that beautiful plant could become a deadly enemy.

Listed here are plants that are poisonous to cats that must be avoided if there are cats in your home. While in some cases, just parts of a plant (bark, leaves, seeds, berries, roots, tubers sprouts, green shells) might be poisonous, this list rules out the whole plant. If you have any of them, keep them safely out of reach.

Should your feline friend eat part of a poisonous plant, rush the cat to your veterinarian as soon as possible. If you can, take the plant with you for ease of identification.

An important phone number to keep handy is the National Animal Poison Control Center Hotline – 1-900-680-000 ($2.95/minute, 10 minute average) or 1-800-548-2423 ($30.00/case, Visa/Mastercard ONLY).

Plants Poisonous to Cats:
Alfalfa
Almond (pits of)

Aloe Vera
Alocasia
Amaryllis
Apple (seeds)

Apple Leaf Croton
Apricot (pits of)

Arrowgrass

Asparagus Fern
Avocado (fruit and pit)

Azalea

Baby's Breath

Baneberry
Bayonet
Beargrass
Beech
Belladonna
Bird of Paradise
Bittersweet
Black-Eyed Susan
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart
Bloodroot
Bluebonnet
Box
Boxwood

Branching Ivy
Buckeyes

Buddist Pine
Burning Bush
Buttercup

Cactus, Candelabra

Caladium

Calla Lilly
Castor Bean

Ceriman

Charming Dieffenbachia

Cherry (pits, seeds, & wilting leaves)

Cherry, most wild varieties

Cherry, Ground
Cherry, Laurel
Chinaberry
Christmas Rose
Chrysanthemum
Clematis
Coriaria
Cornflower
Corydalis
Crocus, Autumn
Crown of Thorns
Cyclamen

Daffodil Daphne
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Nightshade
Death Camas
Delphinium
Dicentrea
Dieffengachia
Dumb Cane

Easter Lily
Eggplant
Elderberry
Elephant Ear
English Ivy
Euonymus
Evergreen

Ferns
Flax
Four O’ Clock
Foxglove

Golden Chain
Golden Glow
Gopher Purge

Hellebore
Hemlock Poison
Hemloc, Water
Henbane
Holly
Honeysuckle
Horsebeans
Horsebush
Horse Chestnuts
Hyacinth
Hydrangea

Indian Tobacco
Iris
Iris Ivy

Jack in the Pulpit
Java Beans
Jessamine
Jerusalem Cherry
Jimpson Weed
Jonquil
Jungle Trumpets

Lantana
Larkspur
Laurel
Lily
Lily Spider
Lily of the Valley
Locoweed
Lupine

Marigold
Mescal Bean
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Moonseed
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms

Narcissus
Nightshade

Oleander

Peach (pits of)
Peony
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pimpernel
Poinciana
Poinsettia
Poison Hemlock
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Poppy
Potato
Precatory Bean
Privet, Common

Rhododendron
Rhubarb
Rosary Pea
Rubber Plant

Scotch Broom
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrops
Snow on the Mountain
Staggerweed
Star of Bethlehem
Sweet Pea

Tansy Mustard

Tiger Lily
Tobacco
Tomato
Tulip
Tung Tree

Virginia Creeper

Water Hemlock
Weeping Fig
Wild Call
Wisteria

Yews
e.g. Japanese Yew, English Yew, Western Yew, American Yew

Additional Resources and Information:

Aversives For Cats	How To Get Some Sleep
Cat Toys and How To Use Them	Managing Your Kitten's Rough Play
Cats and Christmas Trees	The Fearful Cat
Cats Destructive Scratching	Understanding Cat Aggression Towards People
Discouraging Roaming Cats	Your Cat Indoors Or Out
Feline Social Behavior and Aggression	Your Talkative Cat

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