Creating and Maintaining a Bond | Housetraining | Preventing Dog Bites | Weather Related Tips | Health Tips | Additional Resources and Information 

CREATING AND MAINTAINING A BOND WITH YOUR NEWLY ADOPTED FAMILY MEMBER

The whole family is so excited. You have just come home from the Animal Rescue League with the cutest puppy or most beautiful dog in the world. You want this dog to be Lassie, Rin Tin Tin and Benji, all rolld into one great dog. How do you get there from here?

Training: FACT: Your new pet will be learning from the time you get her home, whether you are intentionally training her or not. Start on the right foot with the rules, and follow up by being very consistent. So, if she will not be allowed on the couch in the future, don’t allow her on the couch at all. The same goes for the bed. Start working on sit, down, and even tricks right away. You may find out your dog already knows how to do these, and together you can teach her more fun things to do. Watch your new pet for things it does that you can reward. If she lays down, “what a good puppy!” If she grabs her own toy instead of your slippers, “What a good dog!” Preventing bad habits from starting is much easier than changing them later on.

Housetraining: FACT: Take a new puppy or dog outside lots of times at first. Even a dog that was housetrained in its last home can make mistakes at first due to anxiety or stress.

Bonding with you new pet: FACT: Food has a wonderful way of making friends with dogs and puppies. Use part of all of their meal to teach her name, and to come when she is called. Try playing a game like “monkey in the middle”. Two or more humans stand about 10 feet apart and each has tiny treats or dog food. Another person has the dog or puppy on a leash. The people with the treats take turns calling the dog to them, and giving the dog the food or treats when it has come. If the dog does not go on it own, the person with the leash can gently guide the dog to the caller. Do this 5-10 times, but stop before the dog loses interest. This can be done at each mealtime with the dog’s own food, or at a playtime with some treats. This game can be played with one person, just have the puppy or dog follow you around the room, or toss a piece of food a few feet away so that the dog can go get it, then practice coming to its name again.

Another great way to bond is to keep the dog or puppy tied to you. Go about your day as usual, but the dog will be with you wherever you go. This will also help with housetraining, as the dog or puppy can’t wander out of your sight and make a mistake.

It will be useful to have the dog or puppy sleep in the bedroom with you. Sleeping in the same room as her humans will make her feel like part of the group, and you can hear if she is restless and needs to go outside. Sleeping in a crate is a good idea for puppies or dogs. This allows minimal mistakes while you get a good night’s rest. Most puppies will cry for awhile at first before going to sleep. This is normal and gradually goes away. If a dog or puppy fusses or vocalizes be sure not to approach the crate. You don’t want your new pet to think it can summon you with a cry or whine.

A big part of your responsibility will be socializing your new puppy. Puppies should meet literally hundreds of people in the first few weeks after you bring her home. She should meet all sizes and shapes, with hats and sunglasses. As many people as possible should give her treats and pet her. She should think that all people are great, no matter what they look like. Take her places, many pet stores allow pets to come in. Consider getting her into a puppy class. Find friends who have puppies or friendly dogs for her to play with. Many banks give out dog cookies at the drive-through. You may even want her to visit the vets’ clinic for treats even when she isn’t getting any vaccinations.

Many people may believe or have been taught that your dog should obey because it loves you. FACT: Dogs do what is good for dogs. Therefore, if your dog gets a treat for being in a sit position, it will sit again just in case another treat might come. Also, if your dog can get something smelly and interesting out of the garbage, she will do that again, too.

You will want to take an objective look at your house to see where your dog may have an opportunity to get into problems. Garbage cans should have a tight lid or be inside a cupboard. “Chewables” like slippers, laundry, or the kids’ toys should be put away until the dog can be taught the difference.

• Be creative
• Try to think from your new dog’s perspective
• Prevent problems, train, socialize, bond … have fun!!!

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Housetraining! It Ain’t Rocket Science!!!

This method of housetraining is focused on preventing “accidents” instead of waiting for the accidents to happen. The goal is to make it easy for the puppy to do the right thing in the first place. Training in this way is faster and more effective than punishing the dog for mistakes. You play the most important part in the success or failure of this method. You must be patient, determined and consistent for it to work. If you already own an adult dog with housetraining problems, you can use this method to start fresh just as you would with a puppy.

This method also requires the use of a dog crate, or at least, a small confined area for the pup to stay in when he can’t be supervised. A crate isn’t cruel! It’s your dog’s own private room where he can rest and stay safe, secure and out of trouble. Just like a small child, your puppy needs to be protected from hurting himself and destroying your furniture. A crate will make the job so much easier!

The first few weeks of owning a puppy or dog are some of the hardest and most important. Spending extra time and effort now will pay off in a big way. Before you start, here are some essential housetraining facts:

• Adult dogs can be housetrained in the same way as puppies.
• Puppies have limited bladder control.
• Dogs and puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
• All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.

Dogs have to go potty:

• When they wake up in the morning or after a nap.
• Shortly after eating and drinking.
• Before they go to sleep.
• After stressful events.
• After active play (or sometimes during!)

If a dog (and especially a puppy) is not allowed to relieve itself at those times, it will most likely have an accident. Don’t wait for the dog to “tell” you that it has to go out. Just assume that he does and take him outside.

Housetraining Puppies

Baby puppies, under 3 months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don’t know they’re going to “go” until the moment they do! It’s not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead of time. If you’re observant, you’ll see that a puppy who’s looking for a place to go potty will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct– he’s looking for a place that’s already been used. If he can’t find one, he’ll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you’ll teach him that they only appropriate bathroom is the one outside.

Ideally, you’re reading this before you’ve brought your new puppy home. If you already have your puppy, just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place.

Set up a dog crate or small confined area (the smaller the better). Using a dog crate will be more effective. The size of the crate is important. If it’s too large, the puppy will have room to use one end as a bathroom. If you’ve bought a crate for him to “grow into”, you can also get dividers to reduce the inner space while he’s small. If he must be left alone while you’re at work, then a larger crate is okay. Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can’t be home to let him out.

Also in the crate should be a sleeping pad (if he won’t tear it up) and toys. Put the crate where he isn’t shut away from the family. If you’re using a confined area instead, a baby gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and isolating your puppy. Your puppy might not like the crate at first. Don’t give in to his complaining or tantrums! If you’re sure he isn’t hungry or has to go potty, ignore his yowling. Eventually he’ll settle down and sleep which is what crates are for! If you give a tempting treat every time you put the dog in his crate, he’ll soon look forward to going in. He should also get all his meals in the crate, until he will run into it on his own for sleeping and eating.

The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can’t keep a close eye on him. If you’ve allowed him to go potty when he needs to, he won’t dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he’s developed better control, he won’t need the newspapers unless you’re going to be gone all day. Change the papers several times a day if they’ve been soiled.

Puppy’s First Night Home

Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Set him on the grass and let him stay there until he potties. When he does, tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at least) while he’s awake. Don’t wait for him to tell you that he has to go!

Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. after a meal, carry him outside to potty before you do anything else. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly; others may take half an hour. If he’s being slow, walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get things moving, so to speak. Start using a word cue, for example, “hurry up”. Be very happy when you have success. You must stay with the puppy outside. Don’t expect to let the puppy out by itself.

Always take the puppy outside the first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the puppy to the door. This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate on to your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he’ll probably have an accident before he gets there. Part of the training method is physiological – you want the puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting.

After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, and then tuck him into his crate for the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out. Carry him outside to potty, then put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. If you play with him, he might decide he doesn’t want to go back to sleep. Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days.

Daytime Schedule

Establish a regular schedule of puppy trips and feedings. This helps you control the times he has to go out and prevent accidents in the house.
First thing in the morning before you have your coffee, carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an hour in whatever room you are in.

Consider using the umbilical method when the puppy has time in the house. Use a soft buckle collar on the dog or puppy, and leash that connects you to the puppy. Accidents are prevented because you always know where the puppy is.

Feed breakfast in the crate and don’t let him out again for ½ hour. Then carry him back outside to potty. Puppies usually have a bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it.

Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so.

Don’t give him free run of the house. Use baby gates or close doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn’t go in. Puppies are notorious for finding out-of-the-way corners to have accidents in. Keep him in an area where you will watch him.

Observation and supervision are the keys to quick housetraining! If you give him too much freedom too soon, he’ll make a mistake.

After playtime, take him outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap. For the first month or so, you’ll be feeding three to four meals a day. Adult dogs only need two meals a day.

Repeat the same procedure throughout the day: potty outside the first thing in the morning, one hour playtime, potty, meal in crate, potty, playtime, potty, nap, potty, playtime, meal, etc. The playtimes can be lengthened as the puppy gets older and is more reliable. Eventually the puppy will be letting you know when he needs to go out.

Remember: If you ignore his request or don’t move quickly, he will have an accident.

I know this sounds like a lot of work and it is. The results of all this running in and out will pay off in a well-housetrained puppy and clean carpets. Keep in mind that some breeds are easier to housetrain than others and how the puppy was raised before he came to you has an affect too. Pet store puppies that were allowed to use wire-bottom crates have less inclination to keep their crates clean. Puppies that were raised in garages or barns where they could “go” wherever, will also be a little more difficult. Don’t give up though. You can train them. It will just take a little longer.

A Word About Paper Training

By only allowing the pup to relieve itself outside, you’re teaching it that it’s not acceptable to use the house. Using newspapers in the house will override this training. Also, be aware that many puppies get the notion that going potty near the papers is as good as going on them! If you must use newspapers when you’re gone keep to the regular housetraining schedule when you’re at home. Get the puppy outside often enough and don’t leave papers out “just in case.”

Keep your dog’s yard picked up and free of old stools. Many dogs choose an area to use as a bathroom. If left to become filthy, they’ll refuse to use it and do their business in the house instead. If your dog has to be tied up when he’s outside, keeping the area clean is even more critical. If you could only move about in a small area, you wouldn’t want to lie next to the toilet, would you? Picking up stools helps you keep tabs on your dog’s health as well. Stools should be firm and well formed. Loose, sloppy stools can be an indication of worms health problems, stress, or digestive upset.

Housetraining Older Dogs

You can use a modified puppy schedule to train an un-broken dog or one that’s having housetraining problems. Start from the beginning just as you would for a puppy. Use a crate and put him on a schedule.

An older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods provided you take it outside at critical times – first thing in the morning, after meals and the last thing at night. Until they are reliable, get them outside every 3-4 hours in between those times. Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on a leash. You can walk them longer, use a long line or a flexi-lead, or keep them confined until they really have to go. Supervision is just as vital as for a puppy. You don’t want your dog to practice making mistakes in your house. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.

What To Do If The Puppy Or Dog Has An Accident

Remember that this method of housetraining is based on preventing accidents. By faithfully taking the dog out often enough, you’ll get faster results than if you discipline the puppy after the fact. If your puppy makes a mistake because you didn’t get him out when you should have, it’s not his fault!

If you catch the pup in the act, stay calm. Make a startling noise, like clapping your hands or slapping the wall, just to try to stop the action. Carry him outside to an area he’s already used. As you set him on the ground, tell him “go potty”. Praise him if he finishes the job. Leave him out for a few more minutes to make sure he’s done before bringing him back in. This is a little trickier with an adult dog, especially if he’s new to you and you don’t know how he will react to being grabbed and thrust outside. Grab a leash and take him outside, and make a point of getting him outside more often.

Corrections such as rubbing his nose in it, smacking with newspapers, yelling, hitting or slapping will only confuse and scare the dog. If you come across an “old” accident, it does more harm to try to punish for it. Dogs won’t connect a past act with your present anger. He simply won’t understand what you are so made about. He’ll act guilty because that is behavior that dogs use to calm other dogs, and he is hoping it will work with you.

Keep in mind that health problems, changes in diet and emotional upsets (moving to a new home, adding a new pet or family member, etc.) can cause temporary lapses in housetraining. Diabetes in adult dogs and urinary tract infections in both dogs and puppies can cause dogs to have to urinate more often. Urinary infections are common in young female puppies. A symptom is frequent squatting with little urine release. If you suspect a physical problem, take your dog for an examination. Sudden changes in dog food brands or overindulgence in treats or table scraps can cause diarrhea. Dogs don’t need much variety in their diets so you’re not harming yours by staying to one brand of food. If you make a change, do it gradually by mixing a little of the new with the old. Gradually increase the amount of new food every day. A sudden change of water can cause digestive upset, too. If you’re moving or traveling, take along a couple gallons of “home” water to mix with the new. Distilled water from the grocery store can also be used.

Cleaning Up Accidents

If you’ve worked hard with this training method, you won’t have many! Put your puppy or adult dog away out of sight while you clean up a puddle. Clean up on a vinyl floor is pretty simple. On carpeting, get lots of paper towels and continue blotting with fresh paper until you’ve lifted as much liquid as possible.

Don’t use a cleaner with ammonia, which will attract the dog or puppy back to the spot. In a pinch, white vinegar diluted half and half with water will do. From your vet or at the pet store, pick a product that will actually neutralize the ammonia, not just cover the smell.

Puppies and dogs are attracted to urine odors and their noses are much better than ours. Even when using a commercial odor killer, a teeny residue will be left behind that our dogs can smell. Keep an eye on that spot in the future.

This guide was written in part by Vicki Rodenberg and has been edited by Paula Sunday, Pet Behavior Counselor, Animal Rescue League of Iowa.

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PREVENTING AND AVOIDING DOG BITES

The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) estimates that between 2 and 3 million dog bites are reported to local authorities each year. Millions more go unreported. Children make up over 60 percent of dog bit victims, and nearly 3,000 letter carriers are bitten every year. It’s a serious problem – but it’s a problem we can all help solve.

• Spay or neuter your pet. Spaying or neutering will reduce aggression but won’t reduce your dog’s protectiveness.
• Train and socialize your dog to teach him/her appropriate behavior. Don’t play aggressive games with your dog.
• If you don’t know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious: when a letter carrier or delivery person arrives, keep your dog restrained or shut up in a room and don’t allow your dog to jump up against your door or bite the mail as it comes through the mail slot. Don’t let your child take mail from the letter carrier in the presence of your dog – this may set off your dog’s protective instinct.
• If your mail is delivered by a carrier in a car or truck, don’t let your dog chase the vehicle. Such behavior is dangerous to the carrier and to your dog, who could be injured or killed by the moving vehicle.
• If your dog shows aggression by disobedience or dominant behavior such as growling or nipping, seek professional advice.
• Never approach a strange dog, particularly one who’s confined or restrained.
• Don’t disturb a dog who’s sleeping, eating, or caring for puppies.
• Don’t pet a dog, even your own, without letting him/her see and sniff you first.
• Avoid running past a dog or turning your back on a dog and running away. 
• A dog’s instinct is to chase and catch fleeing prey.
• Avoid direct eye contact with a threatening dog. Instead, in a loud and low voice, tell the dog, “go home.”
• If you think a dog may attack, do not scream or run. Most dogs will only sniff you, decide you aren’t a threat, and walk away. Try to remain motionless until the dog moves away, then back up slowly until he/she is out of sight. If the dog does attack, “feed” him/her your jacket, purse, or anything that can come between you and the dog.

Provided by the The Humane Society of the United States

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Condemned to Death!

Every summer, thousands of cats and dogs die needlessly after they are left inside cars. Even when car windows are slightly open and pet owners are gone “just for a minute” the rapid buildup of heat inside the car can reach well over 160 degrees in a few minutes.

Pets don’t sweat like people do. They cool themselves through their lungs by panting. When the air becomes too hot, brain damage and eventual death results.

Shaded parking areas, open windows and air conditioned cars with the motors off will not prevent your pet’s death from heat prostration.

If you must take your pet along in the car, have another person stay with it while you’re gone. Ask him or her to take the animal for a walk or a rest in the shade. Provide fresh, cool water to drink.

Act immediately if you see and animal enclosed in a car on a summer day. Call the nearest police officer or humane organization for help.

Don’t condemn your pet to death this summer.

Information provided the The Humane Society of the United States

WINTER CARE FOR CANINES

General Winter Concerns

• Winter’s cold air brings lots of concerns for responsible owners:
  Don’t leave your dog outside in the cold for long periods of time. Windchill makes days colder than actual temperature readings. Be attentive to your dog’s body temperature and limit time outdoors.
• Adequate shelter is a necessity. Keep your dog warm, dry and away from drafts. Tiles and uncarpeted areas may become extremely cold, so make sure to place blankets and pads on floors in these areas.
• Be extra careful when walking or playing with your dog near frozen lakes, rivers or ponds. Your dog could slip or jump in and get seriously injured.
• Groom your dog regularly. You dog needs a well-groomed coat to keep him properly insulated. Short or course-haired dogs may get extra cold so consider a sweater or coat. Long-haired dogs should have their paw hair clipped to ease now removal and the cleaning of their feet.
• Feed your dog additional calories if he spends a lot of time outdoors or is a working animal. It takes more energy in the winter to keep body temperature regulated, so additional calories are necessary.
• Towel or blow-dry your dog if he gets wet from rain or snow. It is important to dry and clean his paws, too. This helps avoid tiny cuts and cracked pads. (A little petroleum jelly may soften the pads and prevent further cracking.)
• Don’t leave your dog alone in a car. It gets too cold and carbon monoxide from an engine left running is dangerous.

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Health Tips

• Dogs cannot talk to us when they are sick, so as a responsible dog owner it is important to pay special attention to your dog’s well-being during the winter season:
  Antifreeze, which often collects on driveways and roadways, is highly poisonous. Although it smells and tastes good to your dog, it can be lethal.
• Rock salt, used to melt ice on sidewalks, may irritate footpads. Be sure to rinse and dry your dog’s feet after a walk.
• Provide plenty of fresh water. Your dog is just as likely to get dehydrated in the winter as in the summer. Snow is not a satisfactory substitute for water.
• Frostbite is a winter hazard. To prevent frostbite on ears, tails, and feet, don’t leave your dog outdoors for too long.
• Be very careful of supplemental heat sources. Fireplaces and portable heaters can severely burn your dog. Make sure all fireplaces have screens and keep portable heaters out of reach.
• Like people, dogs seem to be more susceptible to illnesses in the winter. Do make sure to take your dog to a veterinarian if you see any suspicious symptoms.
• Don’t use over-the-counter medications on your dog without consulting a veterinarian.

Holiday Safeguards

• The winter season brings lots of fun holiday festivities, but pet-owning households must take special precautions:
  The holidays are not ideal for introducing a pet into your family. New puppies and dogs require extra attention and a stable environment, which the holiday season doesn’t permit. Also, a puppy is not a toy or gift that can be returned. Instead, give a festively wrapped can of dog food or a leash as a symbol of the dog to come.
• Holly, mistletoe and poinsettia plants are pet poisons! Make sure they are kept in places your dog cannot reach.
• Review holiday gifts for dogs to make sure they are safe. Items such as plastic toys and small rawhide sticks may be dangerous.
• Remove holiday lights from lower tree branches. They may get very hot and burn dogs.
• Watch out for electrical cords. Pets often try to chew them and may get badly shocked or electrocuted. Place wires out of reach.
• Avoid using glass ornaments. They break easily and may cut a dog’s feet and mouth.
• Refrain from using edible ornaments. Your dog may knock the tree over in an attempt to eat them. Also, commercial foodstrings may contain pain or toxins in the preservatives.
• Whether your tree is live or artificial, both kinds of needles are sharp and indigestible. Keep your tree fenced in or in a room that can be blocked off. A playpen, for example, may act as a barrier.
• Tinsel is dangerous for dogs. It may obstruct circulation and, if swallowed, block the intestines.
• Alcohol and chocolate are toxic for dogs, even in small amounts. Keep eggnog, sweet treats and other seasonal goodies out of reach.

The holiday season is a stressful time for dogs. Try to keep a normal schedule during all the excitement.

Information provided by The American Kennel Club, Inc.

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Additional Resources and Information: